500 yen. You could say it all began with 500 yen.
The bus pulled up in the wrong place; we stepped in slush. Spouts of hot water, like asphalt sprinklers, caused small river deltas in the road. I tried to dodge the miniature rapids, yet my boots inevitably became soaked. 500 meters, about that, we walked; we finally found the hotel. Then, the whole 500 yen ordeal….
“Early check-in fee”
As part of a bus-to-hotel-to-snow resort-to-dinner-to-shinkansen package deal, we were surprised the hotel staff found our 10am arrival a surprise. If they had expected us at this time, why had they not cued us in on the “early-check in” fee?
Oh, well.
500 yen, each. We paid it and joked of what other petty fees might come. There was an onsen. 500 yen? We joked. They had a clothes-drying room. Did they charge for the toilets, too? Maybe “late check-out”? We’d better scrutinize the specifics. The lodge had that middle of nowhere inaka feel. It was familiar. It was a good laugh.
For anyone taking the “Club Get’s” weekend snowboarding tour package to the Lodge Hayashi of Joetsu Kokusai Resort in early March, be warned. You will pay a 500 yen early check-in fee. However, it just might be worth it. It’s all about your expectations. From then on, we decided to expect a stinky breakfast and a poo bathhouse. Consequently, there was no natto for breakfast; the public bath was clean. There was glorious powder and minimal crowds. It was one of the best snowboarding weekends I’ve had in Japan. That’s not bad considering a four-year history in Nagano prior.
It was a Friday. The 16,400-yen package (17,400 with insurance) included the bus to the hotel (well, almost to the hotel…our driver was confused), one night at the lodge, dinner and breakfast, 2 full-day lift passes at Joetsu Kokusai, and passage back to Tokyo via railway (local train to Joestu, bullet train to Tokyo).
Things it didn’t include – but all very well worth it – were the early check-in fee, onsen at the lodge Annex, wine and snacks bought at a walking-distance conbini, dinner and cheese-shio-kara *at restaurant “Kanae” in Joetsu, and the subsequent drinks and chocolate-covered-kaki-peas for the “shinkansen party” back to Tokyo.
* the shio-kara was actually not worth it, as no dish consisting of over-salty squid guts ever would be. It was, however, necessary…and I don’t regret it.
That’s it. Leaving Tokyo from Friday at the crack of dawn to back in the city late Saturday by the time night is hopping. We kept our expectations under control. We got lucky with the spring season snow. It was awesome; it was cheap. Friends were made and good times were had.
It made our moment like the cup promised.
HokkAIdo YO!
February 6, 2013
Being so slope spoiled here in Nagano, it has taken more than three years before finally seeing about all this fuss in Japan’s northern island. Although there is entirely too much transport involved to manage it in a weekend (or even a week) trip, I’m glad I was finally able to ride the tundra at Niseko.
Although it doesn’t compare to the ornate beauty of snow-dusted branches in parts of Nagano, the runs at Hirafu are much wider and less restricted. Despite the same level of crowding (which we dealt with on the lifts), I discovered an eerie solitude on the mountain. I was surrounded by drifts of white and nothing but my board, the powdered terrain, and stillness. The lack of visibility and blizzard winds might have had a bit to do with it, but it was beautifully panic-inducing and enjoyable all the same.
Niseko has several mountain areas: Annupuri, Niseko Village, Grand Hirafu, and Hanazono. All of the areas can be accessed from the very top lifts of the mountain, making an all day all-mountain pass the way to go on a clear day. However, powder often comes along with high winds, so we were stuck traversing the areas by shuttle bus as the highest lifts were closed. Although the shuttle is free with an all-mountain pass, the slightly cheaper 5-hour Hirafu pass served us much better in the conditions.
The line for the gondola on the day high winds closed the top lifts
Although we only got to sample the Village and Hirafu during our stay, Hirafu seems to be the biggest of all the areas, as well as the one I enjoyed the most. On the second day, we lucked out to find the top king triple and ace pair #3 open in the afternoon. These top runs of Hirafu are wide, open, and scattered with just enough trees to feel like your exploring the mountains’ natural creases on your own.
Although we stayed in Higashiyama pension village area (near the Green Leaf Hotel and the Village’s Bonzai lift), we soon learned that all of the board shops, places to eat, and night life is at the base of the Hirafu area. It was only a short shuttle bus ride away. The first shuttle of the morning got us there around 9, with just enough time to enjoy the “big breakfast” at the Green Farm Cafe before hitting the slopes on our 5-hour pass.
The last bus, however, leaves the Hirafu Welcome Center around 8:30pm. It was enough time for a little board shop browsing, dinner and drinks, but we were stuck to searching the Higashiyama area for our amusements after that point.
Hirafu area at night
steak and cheese pie!
About the only thing in that area (aside from the Green Leaf, a hotel with far too much swank for me) was The Black Diamond Lodge. It worked out well enough as they had Coronas, taco salad, and a variety of unique soy dishes like the tofu donuts that our group rather questionably enjoyed….
The lodge’s shuttle vehicle was also impressive.
Back at our hotel, The Pension Brook, we could enjoy a small ofuro-style bath to soak our mountain-and-blizzard beaten bodies. There are two “public” baths on the bottom level. Public, as they can be used by any guests, but with the ability to occupy and lock each room separately if you’re not keen on sharing bath-time with strangers. Altogether, the pension was pretty affordable and the lack of in-room bathroom wasn’t a big deal – well worth saving some cash.
Our last night in Hokkaido we spent on a bus back to Sapporo, followed by a late dinner and some Sapporo-drinking at a local izakaya. “AI YO!” was the common exclamation ringing through the place, as servers shouted to each other and answered with the coined phrase, later learned as the name of the restaurant. It was hard not to answer back with an enthusiastic “AIII YOO!” now and then.
Finally, we made our way – slipping and sliding – through the hard-packed snow of Sapporo’s “sidewalks” to check out the near-finished snow sculptures for the yuki matsuri (snow festival). Though it was cold and the blocks of sculptures were numerous, the massive size and detail on some of them were definitely worth it!
And that’s that. Until next time, Hokkaido. AIII YO!!!
Trees
February 27, 2012
Nagano slopes, although Olympic worthy, are perhaps not as steep or raw as something one might find in the Rockies. There is just something about them though, and I have decided it is the trees.
It’s one thing to enjoy the challenge of a few trees on a powder day. When those trees are like delicate white paint on washi, a gallery of art in the mountains, that is Nozawa Onsen. This winter, I added a few more resorts to the ticket-holder band on my jacket. Whereas parts of Cortina, top lifts of Tsugaike, and Happone‘s skyline compare for riding, Yamabiko in Nozawa wins as the most beautiful.
Until we pull the kerosene heater from closet again next near, Nagano.
iloverocks 