Distance racing around Nagano and Honshu

Inuyama Yomiuri (photo by Natalie Collar)

In October 2010, I ran my first real race in Japan at Nagano prefecture’s “Suwako half”, or Lake Suwa half marathon.  After participating in a small local “ekiden”, relay-race for my village, an enthusiastic marathon-runner teacher from the elementary school (part of my village teacher relay team) convinced me to sign up for the race around the shores of Lake Suwa.  Thus my expereince with the Japanese road race began….

Suwako half

Suwako was a crowded race, packed even up to the 16k marker.  It seemed to be popular for employee team-building, as runners were labeled according to their company’s group, some even in costumes.  Just before starting, I ran into one friend who had been pressured to run on her company team.  Naturally, I was surprised that employers would push people to take on such a physical feat even for the first time…then again, senior high school students in Japan usually have a “school marathon day” of anywhere from 14-40 kilometers…so yeah.
…..

Taking a break from the 13.1 miles, I signed up for the Yasuoka 10k road race as my next race that following August.  In a village near Nagano prefecture’s southernmost point, nothing can describe the heat and humidity of summer in it’s peak.  That, coupled with the intense 100 meter climbs and falls of the mountains there, I would easily classify this 10k as being harder than many half marathons.  It’s a rewarding finish, for sure…especially with the local nursery school children lined up at your final hill for high-fives and their loudest “fight! fight!” they can muster.

Again, in July 2012, I had the opportunity to run in another Japanese half marathon at Obuse village (near Nagano City).  This was one of the craziest, enjoyable races I’ve run yet.  Designed to be a ‘fun run’ in the height of the summer’s heat, Obuse “mini” marathon (mini, a play on words with the Japanese, “to see, to view”) took runners -some in insane costumes – through back roads of the village, farmer’s fields, past performing musicians, ice cream and even wine stands.

16k at Obuse…ice cream ahead!

At the finish line, runners were most likely drenched in the fountains of a local park, handed a towel, and sent on their way.

Obuse, having been the first half marathon I had trained-for and ran in Vibram five fingers, I was hooked and promptly signed my toes up for the next race.

view from Ontake course (photo by Maya Katzir)

Ontake’s 2nd ever “Ontake-ko half” in October was a welcome break to the massive crowds drawn-in by Suwa and Obuse.  With only a little over 1000 racers, I was able to nearly place for a medal (but not fast enough!).  Despite the altitude of over 800 meters, everything about this course – a long stretch along a dam reservoir at Mt. Otake’s base – was really enjoyable… except the finish.  In the last 500 meters, I rounded the bend to see the clock running, seconds away from 2 hours.  Kicking in my sprint for the end, I suddenly realized I wasn’t lined up for the finish arch.  Runners had one last 400 meter track-loop before winding around into final gate.  My world came crashing down as I painfully saw my goal of under 2-hours run out before my eyes.  It was a race of painful “almosts”, but a nice race and course nonetheless.

(photo by Maya Katzir)

I got my revenge finally in Inuyama City’s cold “Yomiuri Inuyama half”.  Set on February 24th this year, it was indisputably the coldest race and coldest training I’ve ever taken on.  Second and third timers assured me that this year was certainly not typical.  When we had expected plum blossom buds, there was instead hints of snow…and frigid, strong winds that blew from the lake near the course.  Aside from that, the course was great; fairly flat and straightforward, it went by quicker than any of the other races.  My only complaint would have been the immense crowd I ran with.  There were so many people; being trampled was a serious concern.  I was literally tripping over arms and limbs – even in the finishing 100 meters! Nevertheless, the fast course allowed me to get my 2-hour revenge and it was oh so sweet!

sooo many people…

HokkAIdo YO!

Being so slope spoiled here in Nagano, it has taken more than three years before finally seeing about all this fuss in Japan’s northern island.  Although there is entirely too much transport involved to manage it in a weekend (or even a week) trip, I’m glad I was finally able to ride the tundra at Niseko.

Although it doesn’t compare to the ornate beauty of snow-dusted branches in parts of Nagano, the runs at Hirafu are much wider and less restricted.  Despite the same level of crowding (which we dealt with on the lifts), I discovered an eerie solitude on the mountain.  I was surrounded by drifts of white and nothing but my board, the powdered terrain, and stillness.  The lack of visibility and blizzard winds might have had a bit to do with it, but it was beautifully panic-inducing and enjoyable all the same.

Niseko has several mountain areas:  Annupuri, Niseko Village, Grand Hirafu, and Hanazono.  All of the areas can be accessed from the very top lifts of the mountain, making an all day all-mountain pass the way to go on a clear day.  However, powder often comes along with high winds, so we were stuck traversing the areas by shuttle bus as the highest lifts were closed.  Although the shuttle is free with an all-mountain pass, the slightly cheaper 5-hour Hirafu pass served us much better in the conditions.

The line for the gondola on the day high winds closed the top lifts

Although we only got to sample the Village and Hirafu during our stay, Hirafu seems to be the biggest of all the areas, as well as the one I enjoyed the most.  On the second day, we lucked out to find the top king triple and ace pair #3 open in the afternoon.  These top runs of Hirafu are wide, open, and scattered with just enough trees to feel like your exploring the mountains’ natural creases on your own.

Although we stayed in Higashiyama pension village area (near the Green Leaf Hotel and the Village’s Bonzai lift), we soon learned that all of the board shops, places to eat, and night life is at the base of the Hirafu area.  It was only a short shuttle bus ride away.  The first shuttle of the morning got us there around 9, with just enough time to enjoy the “big breakfast” at the Green Farm Cafe before hitting the slopes on our 5-hour pass.

The last bus, however, leaves the Hirafu Welcome Center around 8:30pm.  It was enough time for a little board shop browsing, dinner and drinks, but we were stuck to searching the Higashiyama area for our amusements after that point.

Hirafu area at night

steak and cheese pie!

About the only thing in that area (aside from the Green Leaf, a hotel with far too much swank for me) was The Black Diamond Lodge.  It worked out well enough as they had Coronas, taco salad, and a variety of unique soy dishes like the tofu donuts that our group rather questionably enjoyed….

The lodge’s shuttle vehicle was also impressive.

Back at our hotel, The Pension Brook, we could enjoy a small ofuro-style bath to soak our mountain-and-blizzard beaten bodies.  There are two “public” baths on the bottom level.  Public, as they can be used by any guests, but with the ability to occupy and lock each room separately if you’re not keen on sharing bath-time with strangers. Altogether, the pension was pretty affordable and the lack of in-room bathroom wasn’t a big deal – well worth saving some cash.

Our last night in Hokkaido we spent on a bus back to Sapporo, followed by a late dinner and some Sapporo-drinking at a local izakaya.  “AI YO!” was the common exclamation ringing through the place, as servers shouted to each other and answered with the coined phrase, later learned as the name of the restaurant.  It was hard not to answer back with an enthusiastic “AIII YOO!” now and then.

Finally, we made our way – slipping and sliding – through the hard-packed snow of Sapporo’s “sidewalks” to check out the near-finished snow sculptures for the yuki matsuri (snow festival).  Though it was cold and the blocks of sculptures were numerous, the massive size and detail on some of them were definitely worth it!

And that’s that.  Until next time, Hokkaido.  AIII YO!!!